With the onset of winter, our skin needs a little extra love to combat the damage the cold months can cause.
In winter, when the temperature drops, the body wants to preserve its warmth, so it irrigates the vital organs rather than the surface of the body. The sebaceous glands then secrete much less sebum (the skin’s natural oils), an essential component of the hydrolipidic film that acts as a protective barrier. With less sebum, water escapes faster from the epidermis and skin becomes dehydrated. This affects all skin types, but is far more noticeable on dry skin.
Filaggrin, a key protein of the natural moisturizing factor, undergoes significant changes
Filaggrin is a major protein of the stratum corneum, the first line of defense between humans and their environment (allergens, irritants, micro-organisms). All babies are born without filaggrin; shortly after birth, the body starts to produce it, as it is vital for the skin’s natural ability to bind water.
A 2018 study in the British Journal of Dermatology demonstrated that filaggrin is the main culprit behind the changes we see in our skin in winter. Danish researchers tested the skin of 80 adults and found that the level of filaggrin breakdown products changes significantly between winter and summer, especially on the cheeks and hands. Under the microscope, skin cells “shrink” when exposed to cold, dry air, which promotes the breakdown of filaggrin reserves. Without it, skin texture becomes dry and scaly, with an increased risk of eczema.
It’s important to use formulas rich in linoleic acid (omega-6) and alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3), which help prevent dryness and eczema. These essential fatty acids are incorporated into cell membranes and regenerate the epidermis’ lipid barrier, limiting water loss.
Oral supplementation
People with dry skin can also take supplements, such as a good cod liver oil (rich in omega-3, vitamins A and D), or borage oil capsules rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), with anti-inflammatory and soothing properties, excellent for sensitive and eczema-prone skin. (Ask your healthcare professional for advice.)
Should we change formulas in winter, or just the dosage?
The purpose of using our formulas as a DUO is precisely to change their dosage with the seasons. If you already use our facial oils rich in essential fatty acids, don’t change them! Simply increase the dosage to ONE full pump (or a little more if your skin is dry), morning and night, always as a DUO with about ½ pump of our booster serums (Antidote HB5 or H+ gel). If your skin is very dry with mild signs of inflammation, we recommend our Antidote 04 Intensive Care facial oil (fragrance-free), more occlusive and containing 4% DEFENSIL®-PLUS.